How do I sew elastic fabric?
Elastic fabric is often the bête noire of beginner sewers!
It's not easy to sew and requires a bit of knowledge before you can tackle it.
But don't panic, Tilli will explain everything!
Elastic fabrics
Elastic fabrics are knitted fabrics that are, by definition, extensible.
Among the best known, jersey, the fabric par excellence for your t-shirts, has varying degrees of elasticity whether it's made from cotton, viscose, elastane, ...
Also lycra, found on swimwear or certain sportswear.
There are different percentages of fabric elasticity, from 5 to 500%! What's more, these fabrics can be two-way or four-way stretch.
When making Trousers, swimwear or sports leggings, prefer an elasticity of between 15 and 30%. This will make your garment comfortable, supple and hardwearing.
Prepare your elastic fabric for sewing
First and foremost, wash your fabric, taking care to choose a suitable washing mode (often 30°). Iron your fabric.
Then check the straight thread of your fabric. Depending on the fabric you have chosen, such as jersey for example, it will not be possible to cut in the straight thread. Knit fabrics are generally more stretchy across the width than the height. So place your fabric the right way round before cutting.
Finally, use ultra-thin pins, sharp scissors and roller chalk which will avoid stretching the fabric when tracing.
Sewing elastic fabric
We're not going to lie, the serger is the machine of choice for sewing elastic fabrics.
However, it's not compulsory and a sewing machine will also do as long as you take a few precautions:
- Use "special stretch"needles that are the right size for your fabric. For example, for thin fabrics, go for a size 70 or 80 needle. And for thicker fabrics, size 80-90.
- Choose a synthetic thread, in polyester or polycotton, with a thin thickness.
- Use zigzag or stretch/elastic stitches, and choose them wider or narrower, whether for classic joining, overcasting, topstitching or hemming.
Depending on your machine, you will adjust the thread tension, the pressure of the presser foot and possibly the feed of your fabric.
Finally, as with other fabrics, you will make stop stitches at the beginning and end of your seams and let the fabric slide under your machine, without pulling it, either front or back.
Let your imagination run wild and create endless leggings, swimwear and t-shirts!
No time to start sewing?
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